handcrafted

"Handcrafted" is a much-abused and misused term in the jewelry world. It actually has a very specific definition, per the Federal Trade Commission (which exists to protect you, the consumer, from those businesses who want to fool you in order to make money off you!).

According to the FTC, the definition of handmade or handcrafted as it applies to jewelry is:

The entire shaping and forming of such product must be from raw materials; and its finishing and decoration were accomplished by hand labor and manually-controlled methods which permit the maker to control and vary the construction, shape, design, and finish of each part of each individual product.

That means the piece cannot be cast (made from molten metal), but rather must be crafted from solid metal which is assembled and manipulated.

That is how this band was made: completely crafted by hand out of solid platinum using saws, drills, files,setting tools, and polishing tools. The milgraining, also done by hand. It is a double-sided band set with tiny 0.8mm Russian-cut diamonds.

Cheers!

make mine two-tone!

Brandon's taste was well-defined. So refreshing, given how many men don't even want to THINK about what they want out of their wedding band.

The shape: classic.

Two-tone treatment: obvious and brush-finished.

Pattern: four differently-shaped waves.

Result: shown.

"keep my diamond from ending up in a cake!"

Vanessa was very clear about her needs and wants.

White metal. Diamond that's protected, since she's a pantry chef. Subtle finish. Want to show off the diamond. Nothing irregular in shape--symmetry a necessity.

Here's the result...

A 14K white gold ring with a cup into which a 1/3-carat round diamond is bezel-set. Inside of the cup sandblasted so that the diamond "pops."

Just when I thought a particular set of "druthers" couldn't be combined...

I was wrong.

modern taste, but matched for tradition

Ute hails from Germany, and her taste aligns with that. She likes clean lines and straightforward geometry. When it came time for Rich to select his ring, it was made clear that the rings needed to look like they "go together." So, whereas Ute's ring had the one feature of a faux tension-set diamond, Rich's ring had a simple, centered, pair of straight, engraved lines. Both in brush-finish 14K white gold.

what's so great about an old mine?

Old Mine-cut diamonds!

Old Mine-cut diamonds have so much personality! I always feel sad when someone wants them recut to modern brilliant-cuts. These diamond predate the invention of the rotary saw, and are almost always at least 100 years old.

This cut came into existence in the late seventeenth century. The old miner was the first diamond cut that had all the facets of the present round brilliant cut: the bezel, the star, pavilion mains, etc. However, the facet alignment and sizes were in a different manner as compared to the current round brilliant. The old miner was also more of a square or cushion cut, rather than being round. In fact, today's cushion cut is an improved old mine cut.

This cut of diamond is characterized by a high crown, small table, deep pavilion and large culet. Other names for this cut are: old miner, Peruzzi cut, and triple-cut brilliant.

These cuts follow the original shape of the rough, and are therefore usually heavy and deep and may have poor symmetry. I call it character, however.

While being cut with less than exacting proportions, these diamonds have a beauty and magic of their own which give them a desirable, distinct beauty just as the bygone era in which they were fashioned. To properly show off this charm, they must be set in a customer mounting.

Here, Miss Nora from NOLA was seeking a home for her seven mine-cuts as well as single-cuts, which were put into the halo.

happy new year!

He interviewed every jeweler in town over the phone to make the engagement ring for his beloved. John Trayser was phoning from Chicago, but was also about to move to Bozeman, as soon as he secured Colleen's hand in marriage.

He later told me that he gave the same info to every jeweler, and that I was the only one who seemed willing/able to transform that information into design ideas. I remember well the information, which wasn't really so much about the ring as it was about Colleen herself. My favorite--love it!

Here's the result from that conversation, which was all about a rough-and-tumble, flyfishing, no-nonsense girl. A secure, beautiful mounting for a 1.10 carat white diamond and a series of Yogo sapphires set in two raised channels.

Yes, it was all going to be a perfect New Year's Eve engagement...I told him I would have the ring ready in time.

There's just one thing he forgot...he would be up in Big Sky today, and he failed to figure out an excuse to come to Bozeman to pick it up.

Guess what I'm doing this New Year's Eve?

another halo before its time

The striking Lela came in, with an absolutely stunning family diamond. Big. Beautiful. And in need of an equally beautiful "home." Too bad several jewelers had turned her nose up at the project because the diamond had not been purchased at their respective establishments.

Unless a diamond actually has issues that affect its longevity, durability, or ability to withstand the rigors of the setting process, I cannot understand why a jeweler would not want to have the honor of setting a family heirloom. It really is one of the highest compliments bestowed upon a custom jeweler.

Lela knew she wanted a softly octagonal halo, made with metal that was "barely there," allowing all the diamonds to show themselves off. She also knew she wanted a ring against which any straight band could sit flush. The result is the profile you see, which actually makes the diamond part of the structure. By having the culet (point at the bottom) drop into a tiny hole in the shank, it actually provides additional stability to a basically delicate ring.

Lovingly crafted in my favorite metal, platinum; and set with Russian-cut diamonds for the most amazing brilliance on earth.