Thursday, January 17, 2008

the b.noelle approach to custom design

Every jewelry designer's approach to custom work is different: avoidance at all costs, begrudgingly done for friends and family only, happily done for best customers, or excitedly done for all...

I fall into the lattermost group.

Custom design is a process I find fulfilling on a multitude of levels. First of all, a wide panel of fellow humans is far more likely to demand out of you greater variety than you could ever conceive out of your one brain, set of experiences, and personal aesthetic.

But, the custom design process is often mysterious to those on "the other side of the counter." Below is a bit of my "to the customer" explanation that I choose to offer:

custom

You have taken the first step towards your dream piece of wearable art. You either dreamt of it, saw something similar in your past, have some very creative ideas of your own, or just know that the piece for you isn’t mass-manufactured.

The next step after you finish reading here will be setting an appointment with me. That’s where the magic happens!

The process by which something is made just for you is an intimate interaction in many cases, involving a tremendous amount of communication between the “lucky one,” myself and my staff. The proper communication on the front end guarantees no disappointments when the finished piece is presented upon completion.

We will spend all the time you need to bring you to your comfort level. And I'm professional enough to know that the custom jewelry design process just isn’t quite right for your personality type, and I will try to accommodate you a different way.

I am a European-trained master jeweler, and I have a number of major design awards under my belt. My skill is confirmed by my training (generally regarded as the most rigorous in the world), my experience, the accolades awarded by her peers, and over twenty-five years of delighted clients.

The smooth execution of your project is important to me. But like all of us, my time is limited.

Please know that when you set an appointment with me for custom design, you will be charged a $150 consultation fee, which will be applied towards any design I craft for you.

The very nature of custom work is that no two pieces are alike, so therefore there is no “standard fee.” To provide you with some frame of reference of “entry level” custom design pricing, please note that my prices for the custom mountings pictured below are based on the gold market being at $800/ounce. These styles are considered “entry level” because of the quantity of 14K gold used and the amount of labor required for their crafting.


This set of six stackable rings crafted in 18K gold ranged in price between $464 and $935 apiece (@ $800 gold), not including the diamonds, which were provided by the client.





Pearl-and-Diamond Ring: An unusual cultured pearl and diamond ring custom crafted in 14K white gold, and set with a black Akoya pearl and two round brilliant-cut diamonds for $1,856 (@ 800 gold).





Gent's Diamond-and-Slit Band: A substantial 8mm gent’s white gold band with precision-cut slit and a round brilliant-cut diamond. $1,567 (@ $800 gold)






Postmodern Solitaire: Lady’s faux tension ring custom crafted in 14K white gold, set with an 0.80 ct radiant-cut diamond. The 6.5mm wide version of this design, not including diamond, is priced at $1,427 (@ $800 gold).

Here is a quick synopsis of what this process entails, so you don’t wonder how it works. I hope to hear from you very soon!

appointment length

While appointments can be as brief as a half-hour and as lengthy as one-and-a-half hours, an hour is usually typical. Please set aside that amount of time.

first appointment

If you are having something designed for someone else as a surprise, please bring as many of these with you to your appointment as is applicable:

--Finger size, necklace length, bracelet length
--Photos of the lucky recipient
--Favorite pieces of jewelry (if you can sneak them—if not, memorize how they look, best you can)
--Favorite color(s)
--Any pieces to match or coordinate
--Any existing stones to be remounted

If you are having something designed for yourself, please bring as many of these with you to your appointment as is applicable:

--Examples of necklaces or bracelets of perfect length
--Photos from magazines that show elements of pieces you like [Alara does not copy other people’s work, so we ask that you only show us photos that are meant to be instructional/descriptive, not a “request to duplicate.”]
--Favorite pieces of jewelry
--Any pieces to match or coordinate
--Any existing stones to be remounted

I will be asking some straightforward questions and then others that might seem odd at first, but will make sense in the long run.

Before concluding the meeting, I will confirm with you that I have a clear understanding of what you are seeking.

second appointment

Usually spaced about a week after the first meeting, it is during this meeting that you are presented with a Custom Design Proposal, featuring full-color, actual size renderings of the proposed design(s), along with a detailed breakdown of costs for various options.

It is at this point that any questions are asked, clarifications are given, and modifications are made. Unless the modifications are numerous, a new Custom Design Proposal is not prepared. Notes are simply attached to the original.

Design proposals and drawings always remain the intellectual property of the designer; and as such, are not released to customers. While there is no charge for preparing a Custom Design Proposal, there is no change in its possession, either.

Most designs require a one-half deposit to commence, with the remainder due at the time the piece is complete; which is normally 4 to 5 weeks, with the occasional piece taking less or more than that.

pricing

As already stated above, there’s no such thing as a “typical” price for custom work. It stands to reason that an “atypical” piece will have a very individual price. On occasion, there are styles that folks describe to us as “so simple,” yet as it turns out, it requires an expensive manufacturing method to properly and accurately execute it. And sometimes things that look complex are actually inexpensively manufactured using clever assembly. Please know that it is highly unlikely that a custom-crafted piece of 14K gold jewelry will cost less than $1,000, with $1500 being a very typical benchmark for straightforward rings. Platinum pieces can easily cost double a comparable 14K piece.

quality assurances

Because of the malleability and ductility of precious metals, how a piece of fine jewelry is treated when worn begins to be the most important factor in its longevity and condition at about the 3-month mark. That’s not to say that your new necklace, ring, bracelet, or earrings is about to fall apart at that point. It’s just that a true manufacturing defect will rear its ugly head before then.

So, to show that we back our quality, we fully insure any of our custom designs against all perils for a full year. That means regardless of loss, partial loss, theft, breakage, or mysterious disappearance, you will receive the respective replacement for the first full year. No having to stop in quarterly for a “check-up,” to be covered only for diamond loss, rather than having full coverage.

This insurance does require you to complete a form with some sensitive information, so I provide you with the form and the instructions...completing and mailing it is your job; paying for that first year is mine! After the first year, the renewal reminder comes to you, and continuing with the insurance is your decision (although we highly recommend it!).


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