So many metals, so little time to study metallurgy. Here's a quick primer: each metal has its good qualities and bad qualities for a given application. There is no one metal that is good for all people, all pieces, all the time. We carry a much wider variety of metals than most jewelers. And if you find you like a certain style of piece in one metal, we often are able to deliver the same or similar in another.
platinum
Platinum is indeed an amazing metal. But, it is unfortunately represented by many jewelers as being indestructible, which is far from the truth. It bends about as easily as alloyed gold. And while it does not scratch deeply with normal wear, it scratches easily.
The amazing thing about platinum, a quality that no other jewelry metal emulates, is that it wears away very slowly. This makes it absolutely ideal for very delicate pieces, the most notable being prongs, which are small pieces of metal, meant to hold gems in place.
Most people are familiar with antique filigree rings (they look like lace, with a lot of pierced patterns in thin metal), and are under the impression that every last one was made of platinum. Well, no. There were plenty made in white gold. But, they didn't "live" past their first wearer. Why? They simply wore away. In practical terms, some folks are lucky enough to have a wearable platinum ring passed down from a great-grandmother, while others only have the stones that were in her gold one.
So, platinum is a metal on which we insist for prong-work and pavé setting, and for delicate pieces of all types. Beyond that, we don't push platinum on folks, unless they prefer it-for whatever reason. On reason we hear often is that someone is interested in possessing an heirloom-a piece that can be passed down from generation to generation.
Heirlooms come at a price however. Platinum's expense often precludes it from being used to make heavier or larger pieces.
Platinum's white color makes it desirable for diamond-set jewelry, because that whiteness enhances and complements the diamonds. But its so-called "patina" (a romantic word for the particular fuzzy light produced by the myriad of shallow scratches that platinum acquires) is not to everyone's taste.
So, to synopsize: not indestructible, ideal for delicate pieces or parts, the only way to produce an heirloom, great for enhancing diamonds, whiter than most precious metals, develops a patina which is not universally appreciated.
karat gold
Karat gold refers to alloyed (as opposed to pure) gold. The most common karatages of gold seen in the US are 14K and 18K.
To better understand karatage, here's a simple lesson: 24K gold is pure gold. Pure gold is an element on the periodic table. All pure gold has the same color, density, and other physical properties.
18K gold is 18/24ths pure gold by weight. That leaves 6/24ths by weight that can be any number of other metals. You will notice that 18 divided by 24 is 75%. Accordingly, European 18K gold is stamped "750".
14K gold is 14/24ths pure gold by weight. In Europe, it is stamped "583" or "585".
Technically, all that is required to call karat gold a specific karatage is the weight percentage of pure gold in the mixture-the remaining percentage could be any other metals whatsoever.
Obviously, years and years of trial and error, and then many more years of technological advances, have taught us that certain alloy mixtures produce more desirable results than others. The right color, the right physical properties (thus affecting durability), and the lack of allergic reaction or toxicity all come into play.
Karat gold comes in nearly every color of the rainbow: yellow, white, rose, peach, green, blue, black, purple. But blue gold, which is alloyed with cobalt, can only be used to make accents on a piece, as opposed to being the primary metal used in a piece of jewelry. Likewise with purple.
White gold can range from a cheap, nickel-heavy alloy that is the culprit behind many white gold allergies, or an expensive, far whiter, palladium alloy that is strong and beautiful. Since white gold is made from a pure yellow metal, it is technically not "white" in the way that platinum or silver are. Technically, it is a very, very, very light yellow. It is so stripped of the yellow color we associate with pure gold that it is, for all intents and purposes, a "white" metal.
Yellow gold can be a delicate blond color, or a very rich, deep orangey-yellow color. Correctly alloyed, 18K yellow is as durable as 14K yellow.
Karat gold, in all its colors, is a great "go-to" metal for many pieces. It endures, it can be repaired with ease, and it does not tarnish.
palladium
You might think palladium is a new jewelry metal. Actually, palladium is enjoying resurgence, but has seen uses in jewelry in the past. It is only in recent years, however, that technology has somewhat caught up with this metal's challenges.
Palladium is one of six members of the platinum group on the periodic table. But, don't let its membership in the platinum group lead you to believe it is very much like platinum as it applies to jewelry, as it is not.
Rhodium, for example, is another member of the platinum group, but it is suitable only for plating applications. Iridium, another member, is only used in jewelry as an alloy for platinum, but not in and of itself.
Please don't let anyone confuse you on this. Nothing is like platinum except platinum.
So why the resurgence in palladium jewelry?
Well, when palladium was first used for jewelry in 1939, it was out of necessity. Platinum was banned from all uses other than military ones. You will notice that none of that palladium jewelry exists today. That's because palladium's natural brittleness precluded its longevity. As soon as the ban on platinum use lifted, no one produced palladium jewelry.
Fast forward to the 80s, when platinum was at an all-time low in popularity. Jewelry was produced on the "bigger is better" theory. While few people wanted to spend the extra money on a nice, secure, white prongs made of platinum, they wished for a whiter, yet still reasonably-priced alternative to white gold for prongs.
Enter prongs made of palladium. Hey-they're white, but they're still relatively inexpensive!
The bad news-that natural brittleness of palladium meant that the tips of palladium prongs would "shear off" rather unexpectedly. All but very few manufacturers abandoned production of palladium parts and pieces within five years of embarking on that production.
Fast forward once again, to recent years, which have seen a meteoric rise in the price of platinum. What to do about producing jewelry that is whiter than white gold but less expensive than platinum?
Back to the drawing board with palladium. Thankfully, enough people were committed to examining palladium on a metallurgical level, so that some suitable alloys (mixtures with other metals) of palladium were finally developed.
Alara uses the Hoover and Strong 950 Tru-Pd alloy mixture. It polishes up beautifully, and has far less brittleness than pure palladium.
But, there is one thing we would like to make very clear: as much as white gold is actually very, very light yellow; palladium is not white either-it's light gray. If you compare platinum to palladium side by side, you will notice that palladium, while having no tinge of yellow, is not nearly as white as platinum.
Consequently, we find that we often make pieces in palladium for men. It has a more masculine color than white gold, and usually is not "asked" to hold diamonds or other gems in place when used in men's pieces.
sterling silver and fine silver
Fine (pure) silver is actually the whitest metal out of which jewelry is crafted. For most applications, however, it is too soft for use in any jewelry that will be "put to the test."
Sterling silver is actually 92.5% pure (hence it is often stamped "925"). It is a beautiful, luminous, affordable, precious metal, suitable for many different styles and forms of jewelry.
It is not suitable for bridal jewelry or other daily-wear rings, however, because it simply does not do well over the long run on pieces that see a lot of wear. It is a soft metal, one that wears away quickly. If you want to set stones in a silver pendant or earrings, that's fine-usually one doesn't knock those pieces against surfaces very much. But rings? Not such a great idea if you want to wear it every day for a long time.
Nearly all the sterling silver jewelry produced in Mexico, the Central and South Americas, and the Far East, are heavily alloyed with nickel. Nickel is at the root of most skin reactions, allergies, and other toxin issues related to jewelry wear.
If you believe you simply "can't wear silver," please give Alara silver jewelry a try. All of our sterling silver jewelry is nickel-free. That's because a lot of our sterling silver comes from Europe, where nickel is not used as an alloy for silver; and the remainder is crafted by us or by other designers who also would rather produce a better piece of jewelry at a slightly higher price, than save money where it seems silly to do so.
titanium
Oh, the myths about titanium.
There's so many good things to say about titanium, but it seems we always have to start off by dispelling myths first…
Myth #1: Titanium cannot be cut. So, a titanium ring cannot be cut off a finger.
First of all, titanium jewelry is made by cutting it. There is nothing to prevent an Alara titanium ring from being cut off a finger, should the necessity arise. Because titanium is tougher than other jewelry metals, it does take a little longer. But the exact same cutter as would be used to cut off a gold ring can cut through an Alara titanium ring (see Myth #2) in roughly 5 to 7 minutes.
Secondly, let's consider the most typical reason a person would need to have a ring cut off their finger in the first place. What do you think the reason is?
The reason is that a ring bends, and thereby compresses the finger.
Well guess what? A titanium ring is highly unlikely to bend. Titanium is the strongest metal by weight in the world. If you actually manage to bend your titanium ring, you have exposed your finger to so much force, that the metal out of which your ring were made would make no difference in terms of saving your finger!
Interestingly enough, Alara has a number of doctors as clients (three of whom work in emergency rooms), who chose titanium as the material for their wedding rings. That's a pretty good endorsement, we think.
Myth #2: All titanium jewelry is alloyed with vanadium.
Nope. But a whole lot of it is.
Alara does not carry aerospace grade alloys of titanium, which typically contain vanadium. Alara only sells pure titanium jewelry.
Why?
A couple reasons.
First of all, vanadium is added to titanium for reasons that hardly seem applicable to jewelry. Rather, the reasons are more pertinent if you were making something for aerospace application or sports equipment, say. Vanadium makes titanium very, very hard. So hard, in fact, that the "cutting off the ring" issue starts to rear its ugly head. While vanadium-titanium rings can be cut off, it sure does take a long time.
Vanadium also makes titanium easier to machine.
So, the main reasons titanium is alloyed with vanadium have to do with ease of manufacture and to change its properties for use in non-jewelry objects.
Alara hates vanadium. We don't like how ultra-hard it makes jewelry, when that is unnecessary. We also are somewhat nervous about the fact that vanadium is toxic. While its toxicity when inhaled is unchallenged, no studies have been done to determine its toxicity during extended contact with the skin. Why risk it? And why carry jewelry that during its production, could expose workers to small pieces of material, small enough to be inhaled?
Titanium, simply put, is an amazing material for making jewelry. In our 10 years of experience selling it, we have found the great bulk of "myth talking" to originate with jewelers who opt not to learn about it or carry it.
There's a lot for a jeweler to learn, so they could be discouraged. Unlike jewelry made of precious metal, the great majority of titanium jewelry is machined from solid blocks of material. Its hardness precludes it from being easily welded, so it is, for most intents and purposes, not alterable.
So, the burden of proper finger sizing (part art, part science) falls to the jeweler. For jewelers that are accustomed to spending little time sizing fingers, but plenty of time re-sizing rings, that could be a task that sounds too difficult to tackle.
Then there's the education of customers. As this page shows, there's a large quantity of information that needs to be dispensed so that the jewelry decisions one's customers make are informed ones.
Titanium is a gray metal, a strong metal, and a very lightweight metal. It is chemically inert, which means you can expose it to household chemicals with no concerns about ruining it, and it makes it completely hypo-allergenic.
The light weight of titanium jewelry often appeals to men, particularly those who have never worn jewelry before.
Its physical properties make it ideal for many active folks of both genders. Those same physical properties, however, determine that titanium jewelry is usually machined, which by its very nature results in pieces that have a certain "light industrial" to "industrial" quality.
It is also one of very few metals that naturally has the right physical properties to allow for a diamond to be securely "tension-set". This is an intriguing and appealing setting technique, one that has a lower failure rate than many traditional setting techniques in precious metal.
tungsten
Commonly referred to as "tungsten steel" or "tungsten carbide," tungsten is actually a separate element on the periodic table. It is processed with carbon and ground to a powder.The mixed metal powder is compressed in high pressure dies to for a ring blank. The blank is then fired in an oxygen-free over at 2400 degrees Fahrenheit. The result is a solid metal ring with extreme hardness and toughness. Only corundum (sapphire, ruby) or diamond can scratch its surface.As a consequence, it requires a complex 30-step grinding and polishing process using diamond tools to finish a piece of tungsten jewelry.
nickel-free stainless steel
Less expensive than titanium, stainless steel is another great metal for jewelry. While relatively unknown to most Americans, stainless steel jewelry has been produced in Europe for over 20 years, and widely accepted there for about 15.
With good reason.
Stainless steel, as you know from your stainless steel sink or stainless steel flatware, has many desirable qualities: non-tarnishing, non-staining, durable, impervious to chemical attack, consistent in color. And, when made in the thicknesses that jewelry is made, practically impossible to distort without sheer abuse.
Like titanium, well-made stainless steel jewelry is machined, not cast. It is also unsizable or unalterable. Again, this means the onus is on the professional jeweler to properly and carefully size your finger.
Stainless steel is available in many grades. Just like our silver jewelry, Alara's three stainless steel jewelry lines are also nickel-free. That makes it hypo-allergenic. Earrings can be put in, and left in. Rings can be worn in hot tubs. It's a wonderful, affordable jewelry metal.
Stainless steel jewelry is usually produced in heavy (thick) gauges. Consequently, it has a very contemporary, industrial look. Most folks just call it "cool."
Sunday, February 3, 2008
Friday, February 1, 2008
it ain't easy being green
It's simple: develop a plan to be more green as a company and as a person, and then stick to it. Here's a bit more on the policies I have instituted at Alara to fulfill my "green plan."
Alara is 100% carbon neutral
If just one person or one other company reads this section, thinks about it, and then acts on it, this space will be well-used…
Have you heard of the concept of purchasing carbon offsets? If you have, you will be pleased to know that Alara purchases carbon offsets for all the energy the two stores and the design studio uses, plus for all the travel all Alara employees make to and from work on a daily basis, as well as business travel to points beyond.
Have no idea what we’re writing about? Well, since Alara can’t put solar panels or windmills on the rooftops of its three buildings, we’re doing the next best thing. We calculate what Alara’s “carbon footprint” is for the use of all the electricity and gas we use for the running of the business and for the travel of our employees. We then purchase “offsets” that results in solar and wind power being developed off-site.
You can do this to! You can do it as an individual or as a business-owner, or you can certainly encourage your employer to follow suit. Instead of giving “favors” to your wedding guests, consider having each guest’s placesetting decorated with a card that informs them that they are a guest at a “Green Wedding.” That’s right—you purchased carbon offsets to account for all the car and air travel of your guests, so that your elaborate event wasn’t thrown at the expense of the planet. Throw a couple web addresses on the card…and if even one person follows suit…well, you get the idea.
Here are a few websites to check out for the purchase of carbon offsets. But please beware! As counter-intuitive as it sounds, “tree-planting” is not considered to be a true offset, which is why those offsets cost less. Do your research, and don’t consider this an endorsement of any particular organization.
Climate Care http://www.climatecare.org/
TerraPass http://www.terraspass.com/
Carbon Fund http://www.carbonfund.org/site/
Native Energy http://www.nativeenergy.com/
Alara uses 100% recycled precious metal
Alara uses 100% recycled precious metal to create our collections. To begin, we have in-house refining capabilities, so any scrap precious metal you bring in may be used to create a new piece.
We also take scrap precious metal in trade towards pieces that have been already created, as well as purchase scrap precious metal outright. All that metal is refined and re-used in Alara designs.
And, since we use far more precious metal than we take in, we only purchase the difference from sources that separate their recycled scrap and earmark it. Wanna help? Bring your broken, unworn, unliked precious metal jewelry to us. We’ll purchase it from you at the best rate in town and you can be part of the solution.
Alara is 100% carbon neutral
If just one person or one other company reads this section, thinks about it, and then acts on it, this space will be well-used…
Have you heard of the concept of purchasing carbon offsets? If you have, you will be pleased to know that Alara purchases carbon offsets for all the energy the two stores and the design studio uses, plus for all the travel all Alara employees make to and from work on a daily basis, as well as business travel to points beyond.
Have no idea what we’re writing about? Well, since Alara can’t put solar panels or windmills on the rooftops of its three buildings, we’re doing the next best thing. We calculate what Alara’s “carbon footprint” is for the use of all the electricity and gas we use for the running of the business and for the travel of our employees. We then purchase “offsets” that results in solar and wind power being developed off-site.
You can do this to! You can do it as an individual or as a business-owner, or you can certainly encourage your employer to follow suit. Instead of giving “favors” to your wedding guests, consider having each guest’s placesetting decorated with a card that informs them that they are a guest at a “Green Wedding.” That’s right—you purchased carbon offsets to account for all the car and air travel of your guests, so that your elaborate event wasn’t thrown at the expense of the planet. Throw a couple web addresses on the card…and if even one person follows suit…well, you get the idea.
Here are a few websites to check out for the purchase of carbon offsets. But please beware! As counter-intuitive as it sounds, “tree-planting” is not considered to be a true offset, which is why those offsets cost less. Do your research, and don’t consider this an endorsement of any particular organization.
Climate Care http://www.climatecare.org/
TerraPass http://www.terraspass.com/
Carbon Fund http://www.carbonfund.org/site/
Native Energy http://www.nativeenergy.com/
Alara uses 100% recycled precious metal
Alara uses 100% recycled precious metal to create our collections. To begin, we have in-house refining capabilities, so any scrap precious metal you bring in may be used to create a new piece.
We also take scrap precious metal in trade towards pieces that have been already created, as well as purchase scrap precious metal outright. All that metal is refined and re-used in Alara designs.
And, since we use far more precious metal than we take in, we only purchase the difference from sources that separate their recycled scrap and earmark it. Wanna help? Bring your broken, unworn, unliked precious metal jewelry to us. We’ll purchase it from you at the best rate in town and you can be part of the solution.
Monday, January 21, 2008
quality assurance / insurance
Let's face it. Jewelry is not industructible. In fact, considering the greater advance, through lifestyles changes, of the abuse heaped upon fine jewelry than the lesser advances in jewelry technology that serve to increase product durability, you're in an uphill battle to convince people that there is no such thing as the "rock-climbing"-proof white gold eternity band.
I have found it far better to give people, "Just the facts, ma'am."
TELL THEM the truth. A delicately crafted, filigree- or "vintage"=look band in karat gold has a twenty-year life-span at best. And that rock-climbing could shorten it considerably.
Then, proceed to explain that it simply would not be a function of crafting failure if such a ring failed. Truly, errors in craftsmanship rear their ugly heads within three months of wear.
Not that I want to be so cheap as to purchase 3 months of insurance (not really sure how I would do it, anyway!), but what I do is I pay for the first full-year of all-peril jewelry insurance on any piece I custom craft.
So, not only is my artwork covered for any errors I would have made (can you imagine?), it is also covered for any errors on the part of the wearer. And you're building a lot of good will, to boot.
And, by pointing out that the insurance is "for real," and not contingent upon quarterly inspections or restrictive limitations, you build a lot of good will.
Think about it.
I have found it far better to give people, "Just the facts, ma'am."
TELL THEM the truth. A delicately crafted, filigree- or "vintage"=look band in karat gold has a twenty-year life-span at best. And that rock-climbing could shorten it considerably.
Then, proceed to explain that it simply would not be a function of crafting failure if such a ring failed. Truly, errors in craftsmanship rear their ugly heads within three months of wear.
Not that I want to be so cheap as to purchase 3 months of insurance (not really sure how I would do it, anyway!), but what I do is I pay for the first full-year of all-peril jewelry insurance on any piece I custom craft.
So, not only is my artwork covered for any errors I would have made (can you imagine?), it is also covered for any errors on the part of the wearer. And you're building a lot of good will, to boot.
And, by pointing out that the insurance is "for real," and not contingent upon quarterly inspections or restrictive limitations, you build a lot of good will.
Think about it.
Sunday, January 20, 2008
be a local yokel
Involvement in community feels good, and it does good. So do it, already!
Here are some of the local community organizations to which I belong, and/or on the board of which I sit:
Downtown Bozeman Association http://www.downtownbozeman.org/
While towns and cities all over the nation toil to “create” or “revitalize” their downtown areas, we have the “real deal!” Historic downtown Bozeman has been a continuously vibrant and lively “Main Street USA” for nearly 150 years. The Downtown Bozeman Association, of which Alara is a member, has a tremendous deal to do with our downtown’s continuing vibrance and vitality. Our founder, Babs Noelle, is also President of the DBA.
With a wonderful mix of shops, restaurants, and businesses, our Bozeman downtown is a hub of great events, as well. Hometown parades, the Christmas Stroll, and Crazy Days are but a few.
Bozeman Chamber of Commerce http://www.bozemanchamber.com/
The largest Chamber of Commerce in Montana, the Bozeman Chamber is a great place to meet leaders in the community, foster new business and charity ideas, and give back to the community. Alara is an active member in the Chamber, and would be pleased to have any who ask as a guest at a Chamber event.
Bozeman Business and Professional Women http://www.bozemanbpw.org/
This organization seeks to empower women and girls in southwest Montana's Gallatin Valley, serving as a vital link to services and opportunities that enhance leadership skills and enable self-sufficiency. As a woman-owned, woman-operated company, Alara echoes those goals.
Missoula Downtown Association http://www.missouladowntown.com/
There’s so much to do in downtown Missoula! Vital and thriving, with events upon events! Highlights include Gallery Walks on the first Friday night every month of the year; the Los Dias de los Muertos celebration every November 2nd; the annual Parade of Lights in December, the Farmer’s Markets, the Day of the Dead Parade, Out to Lunch…
Here are some of the local community organizations to which I belong, and/or on the board of which I sit:
Downtown Bozeman Association http://www.downtownbozeman.org/
While towns and cities all over the nation toil to “create” or “revitalize” their downtown areas, we have the “real deal!” Historic downtown Bozeman has been a continuously vibrant and lively “Main Street USA” for nearly 150 years. The Downtown Bozeman Association, of which Alara is a member, has a tremendous deal to do with our downtown’s continuing vibrance and vitality. Our founder, Babs Noelle, is also President of the DBA.
With a wonderful mix of shops, restaurants, and businesses, our Bozeman downtown is a hub of great events, as well. Hometown parades, the Christmas Stroll, and Crazy Days are but a few.
Bozeman Chamber of Commerce http://www.bozemanchamber.com/
The largest Chamber of Commerce in Montana, the Bozeman Chamber is a great place to meet leaders in the community, foster new business and charity ideas, and give back to the community. Alara is an active member in the Chamber, and would be pleased to have any who ask as a guest at a Chamber event.
Bozeman Business and Professional Women http://www.bozemanbpw.org/
This organization seeks to empower women and girls in southwest Montana's Gallatin Valley, serving as a vital link to services and opportunities that enhance leadership skills and enable self-sufficiency. As a woman-owned, woman-operated company, Alara echoes those goals.
Missoula Downtown Association http://www.missouladowntown.com/
There’s so much to do in downtown Missoula! Vital and thriving, with events upon events! Highlights include Gallery Walks on the first Friday night every month of the year; the Los Dias de los Muertos celebration every November 2nd; the annual Parade of Lights in December, the Farmer’s Markets, the Day of the Dead Parade, Out to Lunch…
Thursday, January 17, 2008
the b.noelle approach to custom design
Every jewelry designer's approach to custom work is different: avoidance at all costs, begrudgingly done for friends and family only, happily done for best customers, or excitedly done for all...
I fall into the lattermost group.
Custom design is a process I find fulfilling on a multitude of levels. First of all, a wide panel of fellow humans is far more likely to demand out of you greater variety than you could ever conceive out of your one brain, set of experiences, and personal aesthetic.
But, the custom design process is often mysterious to those on "the other side of the counter." Below is a bit of my "to the customer" explanation that I choose to offer:
custom
You have taken the first step towards your dream piece of wearable art. You either dreamt of it, saw something similar in your past, have some very creative ideas of your own, or just know that the piece for you isn’t mass-manufactured.
The next step after you finish reading here will be setting an appointment with me. That’s where the magic happens!
The process by which something is made just for you is an intimate interaction in many cases, involving a tremendous amount of communication between the “lucky one,” myself and my staff. The proper communication on the front end guarantees no disappointments when the finished piece is presented upon completion.
We will spend all the time you need to bring you to your comfort level. And I'm professional enough to know that the custom jewelry design process just isn’t quite right for your personality type, and I will try to accommodate you a different way.
I am a European-trained master jeweler, and I have a number of major design awards under my belt. My skill is confirmed by my training (generally regarded as the most rigorous in the world), my experience, the accolades awarded by her peers, and over twenty-five years of delighted clients.
The smooth execution of your project is important to me. But like all of us, my time is limited.
Please know that when you set an appointment with me for custom design, you will be charged a $150 consultation fee, which will be applied towards any design I craft for you.
The very nature of custom work is that no two pieces are alike, so therefore there is no “standard fee.” To provide you with some frame of reference of “entry level” custom design pricing, please note that my prices for the custom mountings pictured below are based on the gold market being at $800/ounce. These styles are considered “entry level” because of the quantity of 14K gold used and the amount of labor required for their crafting.
This set of six stackable rings crafted in 18K gold ranged in price between $464 and $935 apiece (@ $800 gold), not including the diamonds, which were provided by the client.
Pearl-and-Diamond Ring: An unusual cultured pearl and diamond ring custom crafted in 14K white gold, and set with a black Akoya pearl and two round brilliant-cut diamonds for $1,856 (@ 800 gold).
Gent's Diamond-and-Slit Band: A substantial 8mm gent’s white gold band with precision-cut slit and a round brilliant-cut diamond. $1,567 (@ $800 gold)
Postmodern Solitaire: Lady’s faux tension ring custom crafted in 14K white gold, set with an 0.80 ct radiant-cut diamond. The 6.5mm wide version of this design, not including diamond, is priced at $1,427 (@ $800 gold).
Here is a quick synopsis of what this process entails, so you don’t wonder how it works. I hope to hear from you very soon!
appointment length
While appointments can be as brief as a half-hour and as lengthy as one-and-a-half hours, an hour is usually typical. Please set aside that amount of time.
first appointment
If you are having something designed for someone else as a surprise, please bring as many of these with you to your appointment as is applicable:
--Finger size, necklace length, bracelet length
--Photos of the lucky recipient
--Favorite pieces of jewelry (if you can sneak them—if not, memorize how they look, best you can)
--Favorite color(s)
--Any pieces to match or coordinate
--Any existing stones to be remounted
If you are having something designed for yourself, please bring as many of these with you to your appointment as is applicable:
--Examples of necklaces or bracelets of perfect length
--Photos from magazines that show elements of pieces you like [Alara does not copy other people’s work, so we ask that you only show us photos that are meant to be instructional/descriptive, not a “request to duplicate.”]
--Favorite pieces of jewelry
--Any pieces to match or coordinate
--Any existing stones to be remounted
I will be asking some straightforward questions and then others that might seem odd at first, but will make sense in the long run.
Before concluding the meeting, I will confirm with you that I have a clear understanding of what you are seeking.
second appointment
Usually spaced about a week after the first meeting, it is during this meeting that you are presented with a Custom Design Proposal, featuring full-color, actual size renderings of the proposed design(s), along with a detailed breakdown of costs for various options.
It is at this point that any questions are asked, clarifications are given, and modifications are made. Unless the modifications are numerous, a new Custom Design Proposal is not prepared. Notes are simply attached to the original.
I fall into the lattermost group.
Custom design is a process I find fulfilling on a multitude of levels. First of all, a wide panel of fellow humans is far more likely to demand out of you greater variety than you could ever conceive out of your one brain, set of experiences, and personal aesthetic.
But, the custom design process is often mysterious to those on "the other side of the counter." Below is a bit of my "to the customer" explanation that I choose to offer:
custom
You have taken the first step towards your dream piece of wearable art. You either dreamt of it, saw something similar in your past, have some very creative ideas of your own, or just know that the piece for you isn’t mass-manufactured.
The next step after you finish reading here will be setting an appointment with me. That’s where the magic happens!
The process by which something is made just for you is an intimate interaction in many cases, involving a tremendous amount of communication between the “lucky one,” myself and my staff. The proper communication on the front end guarantees no disappointments when the finished piece is presented upon completion.
We will spend all the time you need to bring you to your comfort level. And I'm professional enough to know that the custom jewelry design process just isn’t quite right for your personality type, and I will try to accommodate you a different way.
I am a European-trained master jeweler, and I have a number of major design awards under my belt. My skill is confirmed by my training (generally regarded as the most rigorous in the world), my experience, the accolades awarded by her peers, and over twenty-five years of delighted clients.
The smooth execution of your project is important to me. But like all of us, my time is limited.
Please know that when you set an appointment with me for custom design, you will be charged a $150 consultation fee, which will be applied towards any design I craft for you.
The very nature of custom work is that no two pieces are alike, so therefore there is no “standard fee.” To provide you with some frame of reference of “entry level” custom design pricing, please note that my prices for the custom mountings pictured below are based on the gold market being at $800/ounce. These styles are considered “entry level” because of the quantity of 14K gold used and the amount of labor required for their crafting.
This set of six stackable rings crafted in 18K gold ranged in price between $464 and $935 apiece (@ $800 gold), not including the diamonds, which were provided by the client.
Pearl-and-Diamond Ring: An unusual cultured pearl and diamond ring custom crafted in 14K white gold, and set with a black Akoya pearl and two round brilliant-cut diamonds for $1,856 (@ 800 gold).
Gent's Diamond-and-Slit Band: A substantial 8mm gent’s white gold band with precision-cut slit and a round brilliant-cut diamond. $1,567 (@ $800 gold)
Postmodern Solitaire: Lady’s faux tension ring custom crafted in 14K white gold, set with an 0.80 ct radiant-cut diamond. The 6.5mm wide version of this design, not including diamond, is priced at $1,427 (@ $800 gold).
Here is a quick synopsis of what this process entails, so you don’t wonder how it works. I hope to hear from you very soon!
appointment length
While appointments can be as brief as a half-hour and as lengthy as one-and-a-half hours, an hour is usually typical. Please set aside that amount of time.
first appointment
If you are having something designed for someone else as a surprise, please bring as many of these with you to your appointment as is applicable:
--Finger size, necklace length, bracelet length
--Photos of the lucky recipient
--Favorite pieces of jewelry (if you can sneak them—if not, memorize how they look, best you can)
--Favorite color(s)
--Any pieces to match or coordinate
--Any existing stones to be remounted
If you are having something designed for yourself, please bring as many of these with you to your appointment as is applicable:
--Examples of necklaces or bracelets of perfect length
--Photos from magazines that show elements of pieces you like [Alara does not copy other people’s work, so we ask that you only show us photos that are meant to be instructional/descriptive, not a “request to duplicate.”]
--Favorite pieces of jewelry
--Any pieces to match or coordinate
--Any existing stones to be remounted
I will be asking some straightforward questions and then others that might seem odd at first, but will make sense in the long run.
Before concluding the meeting, I will confirm with you that I have a clear understanding of what you are seeking.
second appointment
Usually spaced about a week after the first meeting, it is during this meeting that you are presented with a Custom Design Proposal, featuring full-color, actual size renderings of the proposed design(s), along with a detailed breakdown of costs for various options.
It is at this point that any questions are asked, clarifications are given, and modifications are made. Unless the modifications are numerous, a new Custom Design Proposal is not prepared. Notes are simply attached to the original.
Design proposals and drawings always remain the intellectual property of the designer; and as such, are not released to customers. While there is no charge for preparing a Custom Design Proposal, there is no change in its possession, either.
Most designs require a one-half deposit to commence, with the remainder due at the time the piece is complete; which is normally 4 to 5 weeks, with the occasional piece taking less or more than that.
pricing
As already stated above, there’s no such thing as a “typical” price for custom work. It stands to reason that an “atypical” piece will have a very individual price. On occasion, there are styles that folks describe to us as “so simple,” yet as it turns out, it requires an expensive manufacturing method to properly and accurately execute it. And sometimes things that look complex are actually inexpensively manufactured using clever assembly. Please know that it is highly unlikely that a custom-crafted piece of 14K gold jewelry will cost less than $1,000, with $1500 being a very typical benchmark for straightforward rings. Platinum pieces can easily cost double a comparable 14K piece.
quality assurances
Because of the malleability and ductility of precious metals, how a piece of fine jewelry is treated when worn begins to be the most important factor in its longevity and condition at about the 3-month mark. That’s not to say that your new necklace, ring, bracelet, or earrings is about to fall apart at that point. It’s just that a true manufacturing defect will rear its ugly head before then.
So, to show that we back our quality, we fully insure any of our custom designs against all perils for a full year. That means regardless of loss, partial loss, theft, breakage, or mysterious disappearance, you will receive the respective replacement for the first full year. No having to stop in quarterly for a “check-up,” to be covered only for diamond loss, rather than having full coverage.
This insurance does require you to complete a form with some sensitive information, so I provide you with the form and the instructions...completing and mailing it is your job; paying for that first year is mine! After the first year, the renewal reminder comes to you, and continuing with the insurance is your decision (although we highly recommend it!).
Tuesday, January 15, 2008
assisting with bridal rings
Your bridal rings. The most enduring symbol of your commitment, love, and hard work.
I take that very seriously.
And that means I make it all about you, your lifestyle, your desires, your aesthetic, your dream. There is no one-size-fits-all bride or groom, so why are there so many jewelers selling one-size-fits-all jewelry?
You know what I mean: commodity jewelry. Things you’ve seen again and again; things that will be “dated” once the market over-saturates.
But do not be mistaken. I am not embracing only “over the top,” hyper-modern, or hyper-traditional jewelry. That couldn't be further from the truth.
What I do, and do darn well, is design and sell personal classics. In other words, if it’s a traditional style ring, it is the purest, truest version of that ring—not a diluted one. If it’s a more industrial-style ring, it is done with such balance that it would never look dated. Certain to always catch attention, certain to not be to everyone’s taste, but never dated. A good number of my best-selling “small production” bridal collection styles are still best sellers after 20 years of design. And the ones that were created those two decades ago are still eliciting compliments today.
The same care goes into how I choose the bridal lines I carry, to supplement what I make myself. Simply put, the designers of my “out-of-house” lines are people who have a similar approach to fine jewelry design. I consider them peers. So, when you are drawn to a ring by one of my other designers, know that you are certainly not choosing something typical.
So, how do I do all that?
By being design driven. I let the best design for you, your lifestyle, and your aesthetic taste, rise to the surface by asking all the right questions. Getting to know you. Once that basic design concept reveals itself, I am able to perfect it by staying faithful that particular design style. If I carry a designer whose work is an ideal fit for that style, I will steer you that way. If not, I make it myself.
That way, nothing’s watered down. No commodity jewelry.
Below are some various styles I design and carry, and how I approach designing and crafting them or choosing and selling them.
traditional / classic
It is such a shame that Tiffany’s original prong-set mounting has become a commodity. And in so doing (even in the industry, we refer to the prongs as “Tiffany heads”), all the subtle grace in the original Tiffany engagement ring is gone.
So, that having been said…
If you are too unsure about having a custom bridal ring made to “take that plunge,” but would like to make the proposal a surprise, that is the only time I sell a “commodity style” Tiffany engagement ring. In other words, we all agree it is for “temporary purposes only,” until you come in together to choose a more individual mounting.
But, if what you like is the simplicity of a solitaire, and would like the ring to be beautifully traditional and classic for years and years to come, let me show you some solitaire mountings that have grace and style, and a number of which are completely handcrafted to order. Something to wear with pride and joy.
“I’m rough on jewelry.”
[also known as, “I’m very active.”]
No messing around here.
No jewelry made of precious metal can be made to tolerate the ravages of rock-climbing, weight-lifting, construction work, river guiding, mountain biking, or moving a grand piano. One of the reasons why precious metal is so precious is because it can be worked, which means it is malleable and ductile. If you subject it to forces similar in power to those subjected to it during the jewelry-making process, you will bend it, scratch it, scrape it, and wear it in ways that are just plain cruel.
Anything can be ruined if you try hard enough.
So, provided a few sensible rules can be followed, I am an expert at designing bridal rings for both men and women that aren’t clunky, but still mitigate against semi-abusive behavior. From high school soccer coaches to landscapers to construction works to river guides, I have many satisfied, very active, rough-on-their-jewelry folks.
classics with a twist
This is for the couple who want a design that is classic in basic concept, but which has enough individuality as to feel special. Often a good choice when a larger center stone (whether a white diamond, a colored diamond, or a colored gem) is involved, so that the overall ring doesn’t look too overblown in terms of volume and message.
I can carefully guide to choosing a ring that has balance, taste, and luxury.
“I want options.”
Sometimes I'm more like an engineer than a jeweler. Whether you want stackables you can interchange, a three-ring set that allows for varied combinations, or a second ring to work with an existing one that every other jeweler (including the one who sold the original!) said “was impossible to design,” my technical expertise can get you out of a pickle.
“I want different.”
Basically, most of my customers come in to Alara because we’re different, and so is so much of our jewelry.
Clearly, it takes a lot more effort to fill a gallery with unusual, high-quality lines than inexpensive plain ones. And it takes confidence. And passion.
It is certainly easy for us to provide classic jewelry, because it is only through a knowledge of classic styles that you can build balanced, beautiful designs that will withstand the test of time.
But, a store that shows nothing but plain ol’, plain ol’, "been there/done that" jewelry, will most likely not have the resources to create a design that pushes the edge of the envelope a bit. Without pushing it off the edge.
Different is as different does. And I find that word means such vastly different things to different people. It is our great pleasure to find out what it means to you, and pair you up with the rings that meet your definition.
For some people, it means unusual materials or combinations of materials. For others, it means “conversation starter.” For yet others, it is personal symbolism, a texture from nature, or a hidden secret.
I take that very seriously.
And that means I make it all about you, your lifestyle, your desires, your aesthetic, your dream. There is no one-size-fits-all bride or groom, so why are there so many jewelers selling one-size-fits-all jewelry?
You know what I mean: commodity jewelry. Things you’ve seen again and again; things that will be “dated” once the market over-saturates.
But do not be mistaken. I am not embracing only “over the top,” hyper-modern, or hyper-traditional jewelry. That couldn't be further from the truth.
What I do, and do darn well, is design and sell personal classics. In other words, if it’s a traditional style ring, it is the purest, truest version of that ring—not a diluted one. If it’s a more industrial-style ring, it is done with such balance that it would never look dated. Certain to always catch attention, certain to not be to everyone’s taste, but never dated. A good number of my best-selling “small production” bridal collection styles are still best sellers after 20 years of design. And the ones that were created those two decades ago are still eliciting compliments today.
The same care goes into how I choose the bridal lines I carry, to supplement what I make myself. Simply put, the designers of my “out-of-house” lines are people who have a similar approach to fine jewelry design. I consider them peers. So, when you are drawn to a ring by one of my other designers, know that you are certainly not choosing something typical.
So, how do I do all that?
By being design driven. I let the best design for you, your lifestyle, and your aesthetic taste, rise to the surface by asking all the right questions. Getting to know you. Once that basic design concept reveals itself, I am able to perfect it by staying faithful that particular design style. If I carry a designer whose work is an ideal fit for that style, I will steer you that way. If not, I make it myself.
That way, nothing’s watered down. No commodity jewelry.
Below are some various styles I design and carry, and how I approach designing and crafting them or choosing and selling them.
traditional / classic
It is such a shame that Tiffany’s original prong-set mounting has become a commodity. And in so doing (even in the industry, we refer to the prongs as “Tiffany heads”), all the subtle grace in the original Tiffany engagement ring is gone.
So, that having been said…
If you are too unsure about having a custom bridal ring made to “take that plunge,” but would like to make the proposal a surprise, that is the only time I sell a “commodity style” Tiffany engagement ring. In other words, we all agree it is for “temporary purposes only,” until you come in together to choose a more individual mounting.
But, if what you like is the simplicity of a solitaire, and would like the ring to be beautifully traditional and classic for years and years to come, let me show you some solitaire mountings that have grace and style, and a number of which are completely handcrafted to order. Something to wear with pride and joy.
“I’m rough on jewelry.”
[also known as, “I’m very active.”]
No messing around here.
No jewelry made of precious metal can be made to tolerate the ravages of rock-climbing, weight-lifting, construction work, river guiding, mountain biking, or moving a grand piano. One of the reasons why precious metal is so precious is because it can be worked, which means it is malleable and ductile. If you subject it to forces similar in power to those subjected to it during the jewelry-making process, you will bend it, scratch it, scrape it, and wear it in ways that are just plain cruel.
Anything can be ruined if you try hard enough.
So, provided a few sensible rules can be followed, I am an expert at designing bridal rings for both men and women that aren’t clunky, but still mitigate against semi-abusive behavior. From high school soccer coaches to landscapers to construction works to river guides, I have many satisfied, very active, rough-on-their-jewelry folks.
classics with a twist
This is for the couple who want a design that is classic in basic concept, but which has enough individuality as to feel special. Often a good choice when a larger center stone (whether a white diamond, a colored diamond, or a colored gem) is involved, so that the overall ring doesn’t look too overblown in terms of volume and message.
I can carefully guide to choosing a ring that has balance, taste, and luxury.
“I want options.”
Sometimes I'm more like an engineer than a jeweler. Whether you want stackables you can interchange, a three-ring set that allows for varied combinations, or a second ring to work with an existing one that every other jeweler (including the one who sold the original!) said “was impossible to design,” my technical expertise can get you out of a pickle.
“I want different.”
Basically, most of my customers come in to Alara because we’re different, and so is so much of our jewelry.
Clearly, it takes a lot more effort to fill a gallery with unusual, high-quality lines than inexpensive plain ones. And it takes confidence. And passion.
It is certainly easy for us to provide classic jewelry, because it is only through a knowledge of classic styles that you can build balanced, beautiful designs that will withstand the test of time.
But, a store that shows nothing but plain ol’, plain ol’, "been there/done that" jewelry, will most likely not have the resources to create a design that pushes the edge of the envelope a bit. Without pushing it off the edge.
Different is as different does. And I find that word means such vastly different things to different people. It is our great pleasure to find out what it means to you, and pair you up with the rings that meet your definition.
For some people, it means unusual materials or combinations of materials. For others, it means “conversation starter.” For yet others, it is personal symbolism, a texture from nature, or a hidden secret.
Friday, April 7, 2006
handcrafted
"Handcrafted" is a much-abused and misused term in the jewelry world. It actually has a very specific definition, per the Federal Trade Commission (which exists to protect you, the consumer, from those businesses who want to fool you in order to make money off you!).
According to the FTC, the definition of handmade or handcrafted as it applies to jewelry is:
The entire shaping and forming of such product must be from raw materials; and its finishing and decoration were accomplished by hand labor and manually-controlled methods which permit the maker to control and vary the construction, shape, design, and finish of each part of each individual product.
That means the piece cannot be cast (made from molten metal), but rather must be crafted from solid metal which is assembled and manipulated.
That is how this band was made: completely crafted by hand out of solid platinum using saws, drills, files,setting tools, and polishing tools. The milgraining, also done by hand. It is a double-sided band set with tiny 0.8mm Russian-cut diamonds.
Cheers!
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