What goes around, comes around. I firmly believe this.
We are part of something bigger than ourselves, on so many levels. Here I would like to introduce you to a few elements of Alara's greater circle.
Here, the non-profit organizations I and Alara support on multiple levels:
Thrive http://www.allthrive.org/index1.php
The mission of Thrive is to encourage healthy family development through community awareness, parent education and support to children and families. Alara is proud to support Thrive through participation in The Dogtooth Lily Ball, and through our design and creation of their signature “Thrive” pendant. Over half the profits from “thrive” pendant sales go directly to Thrive.
Museum of the Rockies http://www.museumoftherockies.org
Simply put, an amazing museum. You can visit again and again and again, and still not see it all! Alara sponsors the Museum of the Rockies annually, and also additionally supports through its participation in its annual Museum Ball, and The Wine Classic. Whether donating a 2-carat diamond or amazing handmade jewelry featuring Montana gems, we are proud to be a sponsor of this remarkable museum. For its Golden 50th anniversary, Alara is proud to have been asked by the Museum of the Rockies to design some commemorative jewelry to be available in their gift shop. The result of this wonderful partnership between the Paleontology Department at the Museum and Babs is a collection of pendants that faithfully replicate the toe bone of the Maiasaurus, the specie of dinosaur that Jack Horner is credited with discovering, and the state dinosaur of Montana!
Montana Shakespeare in the Parks http://www2.montana.edu/shakespeare/indexSIP.html)
Did you know that more people in the State of Montana have seen a Shakespeare production than have residents of New York City? A crazy fact, and true almost entirely due to this great non-profit, that has been bringing quality theatrical productions to Montana and its vicinity, emphasizing on rural areas, since 1973. Alara’s founder is on the Toast of the Town Committee, and Alara proudly sponsors Montana Shakespeare in the Parks through that annual event.
Missoula Art Museum http://www.missoulaartmuseum.org/
The MAM is all about “free expression, free admission.” Alara is proud to regularly sponsor Artini Thursdays, aimed to make young Missoulians more active in the art community.
Big Sky Youth Empowerment Project http://www.byep.org/
Provides programs featuring outdoor activity and social-emotional learning at no cost to disadvantaged high-school aged youth. Our support of this organization means that at-risk youth can continue to benefit from the truly great outdoors of our region. Alara is a sponsor of this extraordinary organization.
Women Who Wine
My very own nonprofit!
I wanted to create a way through which more women could become involved in local-area charities. I perceived that many women, particularly those who are younger, are under the misconception that philanthropic involvement requires either more time or more money than can be afforded! To bring together Bozeman’s fine females and fine non-profits, I founded Women Who Wine, a social networking group that meets monthly. Attendance requires membership or a guest invitation, a bottle of wine or appetizer, and a $5 entry fee, all of which benefits that month’s local non-profit. The Women Who Wine slogan: “Raising Money for Charity, One Grape at a Time.”
Monday, February 18, 2008
Friday, February 15, 2008
methods of manufacture
We love teaching our clients about the crafting of jewelry. It is an extensive, broad, topic. Here are a few words on each of the basic methods. We welcome additional questions!
Regardless of method, one tenet holds true of the collections we feature: none are mass-manufactured. One of the signatures of mass-manufactured pieces is that they lack the luxurious weight and heft of a finely-crafted piece. This is because competition in the "world of the typical" is very stiff, and mass-manufacturers will do whatever is necessary to get the price of their pieces down. That means cheap, third-world or developing-world labor, lightweight mountings, and lower-quality gems.
But don't take our word for it. Go ahead and hold a piece of chain-store jewelry, and see how it feels. Then come check out ours.
handcrafted
This is a term that gets abused a lot in our industry. Actually, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) has a definition for the word "handcrafted" as it pertains to jewelry. To paraphrase, for a piece of jewelry to legally be considered handcrafted, the piece must be created from solid metal (as opposed to molten/liquid metal, which is how most precious metal jewelry is produced), using hand tools and a hand-held torch only.
Very little jewelry is handcrafted. Alara is proud to produce a number of lines that represent this "highest form" of jewelry craft.
cast
The great majority of precious metal jewelry (and in some cases, titanium and steel jewelry, as well) is manufactured by casting. Some folks understand this process quite well, thanks to a high school or college metalsmithing or sculpting class. For most, it seems quite the mystery. Here's a quick primer:
The most widely casting method for jewelry is called the "lost wax" casting method. You will not understand why it is called "lost wax" until pretty much the end of the description below.
To begin, a prototype of the finished piece you would like to have is made out of wax or special resin. The most common method for custom jewelry is that a prototype is carved, using hand tools, out of a hard wax. Other methods are to use a CAD/CAM application to produce a wax or resin prototype; or, in the event that the piece was made previously, and a rubber mold exists, that a wax model is extracted from that mold.
The prototype, produced by whatever means, is attached to a cylinder of wax at an obtuse angle. Also attached to this cylinder are any other prototypes that are intended to be produced in the same metal. This entire wax object vaguely resembles a thin tree trunk with a series of strange boughs coming off of it; hence its nickname: the tree.
The tree is suspended in a metal flask, and filled with a substance similar to plaster of Paris in consistency. This substance is called "investment."
The entire flask is put into an oven or kiln, and heated to various temperatures for specific periods of time. In this process, the investment hardens, and then the wax burns away, leaving a negative space the same size and shape as the original positive space. Hence, the "lost wax" casting method, as you "lose" the wax tree in the process of creating the vessel into which the molten metal will be injected.
Here again there are several methods by which the "negative space" of the investment can be filled with the liquid metal. In most small-scale production environments, the flask is either mounted onto a centrifuge, and the molten metal is injected into it through centrifugal force; or it is mounted on a vacuum caster, and sucked into it. Either way, once the molten metal "freezes" into solid, the investment is broken away to reveal the metal "sculpture."
The small pieces are clipped away from the "trunk" of the "tree," and the finishing process then begins.
assembly
This technique can be executed in a variety of ways, ranging from low-tech to high-tech. Basically, with such a vast supply of ready-made parts (called "findings" in the jewelry industry) available, a skilled jeweler can actually create a "custom" piece of jewelry by meticulously modifying and assembling such findings to make a unique piece of wearable art. Certainly more economical than handcrafting or custom casting, but not "do-able" with many designs.
Often, less skilled jewelers call their work "custom" when all they are doing is an assembly job. This practice is rampant. Beware-true custom is from the ground up, and all about you, not all about what findings are available to make something!
machined
While a technique used to some extent with precious metals, most machining is reserved for metals that are difficult to cast, such as titanium, tungsten, and stainless steel.
Machining involves starting with solid blocks of the metal, and then trimming away metal by removing material from a workpiece in the form of chips. Machining is necessary where tight tolerances on dimensions and finishes are required, and involves drilling, turning, milling, and grinding. These processes lend themselves best to straight lines and precise shape concepts, as opposed to organic or irregular lines.
After the piece is basically formed through chip formation, it must be finished to produce the desired finish.
die-struck
Used primarily when the desired finished pieces have relatively simple forms that can be pressed in a tool-and-die, die-striking is used in fine jewelry when a large run will be produced, due to the cost of producing the necessary hardened, tempered tool that makes the pieces.
Die-striking results in superior metal "structure" with zero porosity and defects, and is most commonly a method used for simple wedding bands, findings, and flat "stamped" pieces.
fired
Precious Metal Clay (PMC) represents a dramatic development in the handling of precious metals. PMC consists of microscopic particles of silver or gold suspended in an organic binder to create a pliable material with a consistency similar to modeling clay.
PMC can be worked with the fingers and simple inexpensive tools to create a vast range of forms and surfaces that would be unattainable or laborious with traditional techniques.When heated to a high temperature, the binder burns away and the metal particles fuse to form solid metal that can be sanded, soldered, colored and polished like conventional material.
Precious Metal Clay was developed by scientists working at the Mitsubishi Materials Special Products division in Sanda, Japan. After years of experimentation the first patents were awarded in the early 1990s with many additional materials joining the family of products. The principle ingredient of PMC is gold or silver, reduced to tiny flakes smaller than 20 microns in size. As a point of reference, it would take as many as 25 of these particles clumped together to equal a grain of salt.The other ingredients in PMC are water and an organic (naturally occurring) binder. After firing, the water and binder have completely burned away so what remains can be hallmarked as 999 silver or 999 gold.
Regardless of method, one tenet holds true of the collections we feature: none are mass-manufactured. One of the signatures of mass-manufactured pieces is that they lack the luxurious weight and heft of a finely-crafted piece. This is because competition in the "world of the typical" is very stiff, and mass-manufacturers will do whatever is necessary to get the price of their pieces down. That means cheap, third-world or developing-world labor, lightweight mountings, and lower-quality gems.
But don't take our word for it. Go ahead and hold a piece of chain-store jewelry, and see how it feels. Then come check out ours.
handcrafted
This is a term that gets abused a lot in our industry. Actually, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) has a definition for the word "handcrafted" as it pertains to jewelry. To paraphrase, for a piece of jewelry to legally be considered handcrafted, the piece must be created from solid metal (as opposed to molten/liquid metal, which is how most precious metal jewelry is produced), using hand tools and a hand-held torch only.
Very little jewelry is handcrafted. Alara is proud to produce a number of lines that represent this "highest form" of jewelry craft.
cast
The great majority of precious metal jewelry (and in some cases, titanium and steel jewelry, as well) is manufactured by casting. Some folks understand this process quite well, thanks to a high school or college metalsmithing or sculpting class. For most, it seems quite the mystery. Here's a quick primer:
The most widely casting method for jewelry is called the "lost wax" casting method. You will not understand why it is called "lost wax" until pretty much the end of the description below.
To begin, a prototype of the finished piece you would like to have is made out of wax or special resin. The most common method for custom jewelry is that a prototype is carved, using hand tools, out of a hard wax. Other methods are to use a CAD/CAM application to produce a wax or resin prototype; or, in the event that the piece was made previously, and a rubber mold exists, that a wax model is extracted from that mold.
The prototype, produced by whatever means, is attached to a cylinder of wax at an obtuse angle. Also attached to this cylinder are any other prototypes that are intended to be produced in the same metal. This entire wax object vaguely resembles a thin tree trunk with a series of strange boughs coming off of it; hence its nickname: the tree.
The tree is suspended in a metal flask, and filled with a substance similar to plaster of Paris in consistency. This substance is called "investment."
The entire flask is put into an oven or kiln, and heated to various temperatures for specific periods of time. In this process, the investment hardens, and then the wax burns away, leaving a negative space the same size and shape as the original positive space. Hence, the "lost wax" casting method, as you "lose" the wax tree in the process of creating the vessel into which the molten metal will be injected.
Here again there are several methods by which the "negative space" of the investment can be filled with the liquid metal. In most small-scale production environments, the flask is either mounted onto a centrifuge, and the molten metal is injected into it through centrifugal force; or it is mounted on a vacuum caster, and sucked into it. Either way, once the molten metal "freezes" into solid, the investment is broken away to reveal the metal "sculpture."
The small pieces are clipped away from the "trunk" of the "tree," and the finishing process then begins.
assembly
This technique can be executed in a variety of ways, ranging from low-tech to high-tech. Basically, with such a vast supply of ready-made parts (called "findings" in the jewelry industry) available, a skilled jeweler can actually create a "custom" piece of jewelry by meticulously modifying and assembling such findings to make a unique piece of wearable art. Certainly more economical than handcrafting or custom casting, but not "do-able" with many designs.
Often, less skilled jewelers call their work "custom" when all they are doing is an assembly job. This practice is rampant. Beware-true custom is from the ground up, and all about you, not all about what findings are available to make something!
machined
While a technique used to some extent with precious metals, most machining is reserved for metals that are difficult to cast, such as titanium, tungsten, and stainless steel.
Machining involves starting with solid blocks of the metal, and then trimming away metal by removing material from a workpiece in the form of chips. Machining is necessary where tight tolerances on dimensions and finishes are required, and involves drilling, turning, milling, and grinding. These processes lend themselves best to straight lines and precise shape concepts, as opposed to organic or irregular lines.
After the piece is basically formed through chip formation, it must be finished to produce the desired finish.
die-struck
Used primarily when the desired finished pieces have relatively simple forms that can be pressed in a tool-and-die, die-striking is used in fine jewelry when a large run will be produced, due to the cost of producing the necessary hardened, tempered tool that makes the pieces.
Die-striking results in superior metal "structure" with zero porosity and defects, and is most commonly a method used for simple wedding bands, findings, and flat "stamped" pieces.
fired
Precious Metal Clay (PMC) represents a dramatic development in the handling of precious metals. PMC consists of microscopic particles of silver or gold suspended in an organic binder to create a pliable material with a consistency similar to modeling clay.
PMC can be worked with the fingers and simple inexpensive tools to create a vast range of forms and surfaces that would be unattainable or laborious with traditional techniques.When heated to a high temperature, the binder burns away and the metal particles fuse to form solid metal that can be sanded, soldered, colored and polished like conventional material.
Precious Metal Clay was developed by scientists working at the Mitsubishi Materials Special Products division in Sanda, Japan. After years of experimentation the first patents were awarded in the early 1990s with many additional materials joining the family of products. The principle ingredient of PMC is gold or silver, reduced to tiny flakes smaller than 20 microns in size. As a point of reference, it would take as many as 25 of these particles clumped together to equal a grain of salt.The other ingredients in PMC are water and an organic (naturally occurring) binder. After firing, the water and binder have completely burned away so what remains can be hallmarked as 999 silver or 999 gold.
Tuesday, February 5, 2008
Venetian Peek-a-Boo
My interest in philanthropy is something I tie to my design work as well as my jewelry galleries. Contributing to non-profits is something I do on a number of levels: on-going fundraising through specially-designed pieces; one-of-a-kind, high-end designs for donation to live auctions; mid-level design for donation to silent auctions; sponsorships of both events and organizations. Add to that my participation through boards and committees, and I think you have an idea of my level of interest in philanthropy.
As it turns out, this commitment comes back to me in spades.
But, there is nothing "quick" about the process of karma. For designers and retailers who have a true and genuine interest in philanthropy (as opposed to a calculated approach to this sort of marketing), I cannot encourage you enouigh to pursue it by blending it with your passion.
I am definitely passionate about the Museum of the Rockies (http://www.museumoftherockies.org/), and when they told me this year's theme for their annual Ball was Venetian Masquerade, I let my imagination take the lead.
Shown at the top of my blog's sidebar is a picture of the result. Dubbed the Venetian Peek-a-Boo, this is a two-piece pendant crafted in 18K yellow gold with a dramatic, blackened cobalt-chrome backdrop to provide relief for the cutouts in the gold overpiece. Flush-set with tiny diamonds in strategic positions throughout...
The timely completion of this piece would not have been possible without the generous and expeditious assistance of Sarah Graham, who kept me from having to cancel a vacation in order to search for metallury books in my husband's warehouse... Thanks a million, Sarah!
As it turns out, this commitment comes back to me in spades.
But, there is nothing "quick" about the process of karma. For designers and retailers who have a true and genuine interest in philanthropy (as opposed to a calculated approach to this sort of marketing), I cannot encourage you enouigh to pursue it by blending it with your passion.
I am definitely passionate about the Museum of the Rockies (http://www.museumoftherockies.org/), and when they told me this year's theme for their annual Ball was Venetian Masquerade, I let my imagination take the lead.
Shown at the top of my blog's sidebar is a picture of the result. Dubbed the Venetian Peek-a-Boo, this is a two-piece pendant crafted in 18K yellow gold with a dramatic, blackened cobalt-chrome backdrop to provide relief for the cutouts in the gold overpiece. Flush-set with tiny diamonds in strategic positions throughout...
The timely completion of this piece would not have been possible without the generous and expeditious assistance of Sarah Graham, who kept me from having to cancel a vacation in order to search for metallury books in my husband's warehouse... Thanks a million, Sarah!
Sunday, February 3, 2008
metals - a primer
So many metals, so little time to study metallurgy. Here's a quick primer: each metal has its good qualities and bad qualities for a given application. There is no one metal that is good for all people, all pieces, all the time. We carry a much wider variety of metals than most jewelers. And if you find you like a certain style of piece in one metal, we often are able to deliver the same or similar in another.
platinum
Platinum is indeed an amazing metal. But, it is unfortunately represented by many jewelers as being indestructible, which is far from the truth. It bends about as easily as alloyed gold. And while it does not scratch deeply with normal wear, it scratches easily.
The amazing thing about platinum, a quality that no other jewelry metal emulates, is that it wears away very slowly. This makes it absolutely ideal for very delicate pieces, the most notable being prongs, which are small pieces of metal, meant to hold gems in place.
Most people are familiar with antique filigree rings (they look like lace, with a lot of pierced patterns in thin metal), and are under the impression that every last one was made of platinum. Well, no. There were plenty made in white gold. But, they didn't "live" past their first wearer. Why? They simply wore away. In practical terms, some folks are lucky enough to have a wearable platinum ring passed down from a great-grandmother, while others only have the stones that were in her gold one.
So, platinum is a metal on which we insist for prong-work and pavé setting, and for delicate pieces of all types. Beyond that, we don't push platinum on folks, unless they prefer it-for whatever reason. On reason we hear often is that someone is interested in possessing an heirloom-a piece that can be passed down from generation to generation.
Heirlooms come at a price however. Platinum's expense often precludes it from being used to make heavier or larger pieces.
Platinum's white color makes it desirable for diamond-set jewelry, because that whiteness enhances and complements the diamonds. But its so-called "patina" (a romantic word for the particular fuzzy light produced by the myriad of shallow scratches that platinum acquires) is not to everyone's taste.
So, to synopsize: not indestructible, ideal for delicate pieces or parts, the only way to produce an heirloom, great for enhancing diamonds, whiter than most precious metals, develops a patina which is not universally appreciated.
karat gold
Karat gold refers to alloyed (as opposed to pure) gold. The most common karatages of gold seen in the US are 14K and 18K.
To better understand karatage, here's a simple lesson: 24K gold is pure gold. Pure gold is an element on the periodic table. All pure gold has the same color, density, and other physical properties.
18K gold is 18/24ths pure gold by weight. That leaves 6/24ths by weight that can be any number of other metals. You will notice that 18 divided by 24 is 75%. Accordingly, European 18K gold is stamped "750".
14K gold is 14/24ths pure gold by weight. In Europe, it is stamped "583" or "585".
Technically, all that is required to call karat gold a specific karatage is the weight percentage of pure gold in the mixture-the remaining percentage could be any other metals whatsoever.
Obviously, years and years of trial and error, and then many more years of technological advances, have taught us that certain alloy mixtures produce more desirable results than others. The right color, the right physical properties (thus affecting durability), and the lack of allergic reaction or toxicity all come into play.
Karat gold comes in nearly every color of the rainbow: yellow, white, rose, peach, green, blue, black, purple. But blue gold, which is alloyed with cobalt, can only be used to make accents on a piece, as opposed to being the primary metal used in a piece of jewelry. Likewise with purple.
White gold can range from a cheap, nickel-heavy alloy that is the culprit behind many white gold allergies, or an expensive, far whiter, palladium alloy that is strong and beautiful. Since white gold is made from a pure yellow metal, it is technically not "white" in the way that platinum or silver are. Technically, it is a very, very, very light yellow. It is so stripped of the yellow color we associate with pure gold that it is, for all intents and purposes, a "white" metal.
Yellow gold can be a delicate blond color, or a very rich, deep orangey-yellow color. Correctly alloyed, 18K yellow is as durable as 14K yellow.
Karat gold, in all its colors, is a great "go-to" metal for many pieces. It endures, it can be repaired with ease, and it does not tarnish.
palladium
You might think palladium is a new jewelry metal. Actually, palladium is enjoying resurgence, but has seen uses in jewelry in the past. It is only in recent years, however, that technology has somewhat caught up with this metal's challenges.
Palladium is one of six members of the platinum group on the periodic table. But, don't let its membership in the platinum group lead you to believe it is very much like platinum as it applies to jewelry, as it is not.
Rhodium, for example, is another member of the platinum group, but it is suitable only for plating applications. Iridium, another member, is only used in jewelry as an alloy for platinum, but not in and of itself.
Please don't let anyone confuse you on this. Nothing is like platinum except platinum.
So why the resurgence in palladium jewelry?
Well, when palladium was first used for jewelry in 1939, it was out of necessity. Platinum was banned from all uses other than military ones. You will notice that none of that palladium jewelry exists today. That's because palladium's natural brittleness precluded its longevity. As soon as the ban on platinum use lifted, no one produced palladium jewelry.
Fast forward to the 80s, when platinum was at an all-time low in popularity. Jewelry was produced on the "bigger is better" theory. While few people wanted to spend the extra money on a nice, secure, white prongs made of platinum, they wished for a whiter, yet still reasonably-priced alternative to white gold for prongs.
Enter prongs made of palladium. Hey-they're white, but they're still relatively inexpensive!
The bad news-that natural brittleness of palladium meant that the tips of palladium prongs would "shear off" rather unexpectedly. All but very few manufacturers abandoned production of palladium parts and pieces within five years of embarking on that production.
Fast forward once again, to recent years, which have seen a meteoric rise in the price of platinum. What to do about producing jewelry that is whiter than white gold but less expensive than platinum?
Back to the drawing board with palladium. Thankfully, enough people were committed to examining palladium on a metallurgical level, so that some suitable alloys (mixtures with other metals) of palladium were finally developed.
Alara uses the Hoover and Strong 950 Tru-Pd alloy mixture. It polishes up beautifully, and has far less brittleness than pure palladium.
But, there is one thing we would like to make very clear: as much as white gold is actually very, very light yellow; palladium is not white either-it's light gray. If you compare platinum to palladium side by side, you will notice that palladium, while having no tinge of yellow, is not nearly as white as platinum.
Consequently, we find that we often make pieces in palladium for men. It has a more masculine color than white gold, and usually is not "asked" to hold diamonds or other gems in place when used in men's pieces.
sterling silver and fine silver
Fine (pure) silver is actually the whitest metal out of which jewelry is crafted. For most applications, however, it is too soft for use in any jewelry that will be "put to the test."
Sterling silver is actually 92.5% pure (hence it is often stamped "925"). It is a beautiful, luminous, affordable, precious metal, suitable for many different styles and forms of jewelry.
It is not suitable for bridal jewelry or other daily-wear rings, however, because it simply does not do well over the long run on pieces that see a lot of wear. It is a soft metal, one that wears away quickly. If you want to set stones in a silver pendant or earrings, that's fine-usually one doesn't knock those pieces against surfaces very much. But rings? Not such a great idea if you want to wear it every day for a long time.
Nearly all the sterling silver jewelry produced in Mexico, the Central and South Americas, and the Far East, are heavily alloyed with nickel. Nickel is at the root of most skin reactions, allergies, and other toxin issues related to jewelry wear.
If you believe you simply "can't wear silver," please give Alara silver jewelry a try. All of our sterling silver jewelry is nickel-free. That's because a lot of our sterling silver comes from Europe, where nickel is not used as an alloy for silver; and the remainder is crafted by us or by other designers who also would rather produce a better piece of jewelry at a slightly higher price, than save money where it seems silly to do so.
titanium
Oh, the myths about titanium.
There's so many good things to say about titanium, but it seems we always have to start off by dispelling myths first…
Myth #1: Titanium cannot be cut. So, a titanium ring cannot be cut off a finger.
First of all, titanium jewelry is made by cutting it. There is nothing to prevent an Alara titanium ring from being cut off a finger, should the necessity arise. Because titanium is tougher than other jewelry metals, it does take a little longer. But the exact same cutter as would be used to cut off a gold ring can cut through an Alara titanium ring (see Myth #2) in roughly 5 to 7 minutes.
Secondly, let's consider the most typical reason a person would need to have a ring cut off their finger in the first place. What do you think the reason is?
The reason is that a ring bends, and thereby compresses the finger.
Well guess what? A titanium ring is highly unlikely to bend. Titanium is the strongest metal by weight in the world. If you actually manage to bend your titanium ring, you have exposed your finger to so much force, that the metal out of which your ring were made would make no difference in terms of saving your finger!
Interestingly enough, Alara has a number of doctors as clients (three of whom work in emergency rooms), who chose titanium as the material for their wedding rings. That's a pretty good endorsement, we think.
Myth #2: All titanium jewelry is alloyed with vanadium.
Nope. But a whole lot of it is.
Alara does not carry aerospace grade alloys of titanium, which typically contain vanadium. Alara only sells pure titanium jewelry.
Why?
A couple reasons.
First of all, vanadium is added to titanium for reasons that hardly seem applicable to jewelry. Rather, the reasons are more pertinent if you were making something for aerospace application or sports equipment, say. Vanadium makes titanium very, very hard. So hard, in fact, that the "cutting off the ring" issue starts to rear its ugly head. While vanadium-titanium rings can be cut off, it sure does take a long time.
Vanadium also makes titanium easier to machine.
So, the main reasons titanium is alloyed with vanadium have to do with ease of manufacture and to change its properties for use in non-jewelry objects.
Alara hates vanadium. We don't like how ultra-hard it makes jewelry, when that is unnecessary. We also are somewhat nervous about the fact that vanadium is toxic. While its toxicity when inhaled is unchallenged, no studies have been done to determine its toxicity during extended contact with the skin. Why risk it? And why carry jewelry that during its production, could expose workers to small pieces of material, small enough to be inhaled?
Titanium, simply put, is an amazing material for making jewelry. In our 10 years of experience selling it, we have found the great bulk of "myth talking" to originate with jewelers who opt not to learn about it or carry it.
There's a lot for a jeweler to learn, so they could be discouraged. Unlike jewelry made of precious metal, the great majority of titanium jewelry is machined from solid blocks of material. Its hardness precludes it from being easily welded, so it is, for most intents and purposes, not alterable.
So, the burden of proper finger sizing (part art, part science) falls to the jeweler. For jewelers that are accustomed to spending little time sizing fingers, but plenty of time re-sizing rings, that could be a task that sounds too difficult to tackle.
Then there's the education of customers. As this page shows, there's a large quantity of information that needs to be dispensed so that the jewelry decisions one's customers make are informed ones.
Titanium is a gray metal, a strong metal, and a very lightweight metal. It is chemically inert, which means you can expose it to household chemicals with no concerns about ruining it, and it makes it completely hypo-allergenic.
The light weight of titanium jewelry often appeals to men, particularly those who have never worn jewelry before.
Its physical properties make it ideal for many active folks of both genders. Those same physical properties, however, determine that titanium jewelry is usually machined, which by its very nature results in pieces that have a certain "light industrial" to "industrial" quality.
It is also one of very few metals that naturally has the right physical properties to allow for a diamond to be securely "tension-set". This is an intriguing and appealing setting technique, one that has a lower failure rate than many traditional setting techniques in precious metal.
tungsten
Commonly referred to as "tungsten steel" or "tungsten carbide," tungsten is actually a separate element on the periodic table. It is processed with carbon and ground to a powder.The mixed metal powder is compressed in high pressure dies to for a ring blank. The blank is then fired in an oxygen-free over at 2400 degrees Fahrenheit. The result is a solid metal ring with extreme hardness and toughness. Only corundum (sapphire, ruby) or diamond can scratch its surface.As a consequence, it requires a complex 30-step grinding and polishing process using diamond tools to finish a piece of tungsten jewelry.
nickel-free stainless steel
Less expensive than titanium, stainless steel is another great metal for jewelry. While relatively unknown to most Americans, stainless steel jewelry has been produced in Europe for over 20 years, and widely accepted there for about 15.
With good reason.
Stainless steel, as you know from your stainless steel sink or stainless steel flatware, has many desirable qualities: non-tarnishing, non-staining, durable, impervious to chemical attack, consistent in color. And, when made in the thicknesses that jewelry is made, practically impossible to distort without sheer abuse.
Like titanium, well-made stainless steel jewelry is machined, not cast. It is also unsizable or unalterable. Again, this means the onus is on the professional jeweler to properly and carefully size your finger.
Stainless steel is available in many grades. Just like our silver jewelry, Alara's three stainless steel jewelry lines are also nickel-free. That makes it hypo-allergenic. Earrings can be put in, and left in. Rings can be worn in hot tubs. It's a wonderful, affordable jewelry metal.
Stainless steel jewelry is usually produced in heavy (thick) gauges. Consequently, it has a very contemporary, industrial look. Most folks just call it "cool."
platinum
Platinum is indeed an amazing metal. But, it is unfortunately represented by many jewelers as being indestructible, which is far from the truth. It bends about as easily as alloyed gold. And while it does not scratch deeply with normal wear, it scratches easily.
The amazing thing about platinum, a quality that no other jewelry metal emulates, is that it wears away very slowly. This makes it absolutely ideal for very delicate pieces, the most notable being prongs, which are small pieces of metal, meant to hold gems in place.
Most people are familiar with antique filigree rings (they look like lace, with a lot of pierced patterns in thin metal), and are under the impression that every last one was made of platinum. Well, no. There were plenty made in white gold. But, they didn't "live" past their first wearer. Why? They simply wore away. In practical terms, some folks are lucky enough to have a wearable platinum ring passed down from a great-grandmother, while others only have the stones that were in her gold one.
So, platinum is a metal on which we insist for prong-work and pavé setting, and for delicate pieces of all types. Beyond that, we don't push platinum on folks, unless they prefer it-for whatever reason. On reason we hear often is that someone is interested in possessing an heirloom-a piece that can be passed down from generation to generation.
Heirlooms come at a price however. Platinum's expense often precludes it from being used to make heavier or larger pieces.
Platinum's white color makes it desirable for diamond-set jewelry, because that whiteness enhances and complements the diamonds. But its so-called "patina" (a romantic word for the particular fuzzy light produced by the myriad of shallow scratches that platinum acquires) is not to everyone's taste.
So, to synopsize: not indestructible, ideal for delicate pieces or parts, the only way to produce an heirloom, great for enhancing diamonds, whiter than most precious metals, develops a patina which is not universally appreciated.
karat gold
Karat gold refers to alloyed (as opposed to pure) gold. The most common karatages of gold seen in the US are 14K and 18K.
To better understand karatage, here's a simple lesson: 24K gold is pure gold. Pure gold is an element on the periodic table. All pure gold has the same color, density, and other physical properties.
18K gold is 18/24ths pure gold by weight. That leaves 6/24ths by weight that can be any number of other metals. You will notice that 18 divided by 24 is 75%. Accordingly, European 18K gold is stamped "750".
14K gold is 14/24ths pure gold by weight. In Europe, it is stamped "583" or "585".
Technically, all that is required to call karat gold a specific karatage is the weight percentage of pure gold in the mixture-the remaining percentage could be any other metals whatsoever.
Obviously, years and years of trial and error, and then many more years of technological advances, have taught us that certain alloy mixtures produce more desirable results than others. The right color, the right physical properties (thus affecting durability), and the lack of allergic reaction or toxicity all come into play.
Karat gold comes in nearly every color of the rainbow: yellow, white, rose, peach, green, blue, black, purple. But blue gold, which is alloyed with cobalt, can only be used to make accents on a piece, as opposed to being the primary metal used in a piece of jewelry. Likewise with purple.
White gold can range from a cheap, nickel-heavy alloy that is the culprit behind many white gold allergies, or an expensive, far whiter, palladium alloy that is strong and beautiful. Since white gold is made from a pure yellow metal, it is technically not "white" in the way that platinum or silver are. Technically, it is a very, very, very light yellow. It is so stripped of the yellow color we associate with pure gold that it is, for all intents and purposes, a "white" metal.
Yellow gold can be a delicate blond color, or a very rich, deep orangey-yellow color. Correctly alloyed, 18K yellow is as durable as 14K yellow.
Karat gold, in all its colors, is a great "go-to" metal for many pieces. It endures, it can be repaired with ease, and it does not tarnish.
palladium
You might think palladium is a new jewelry metal. Actually, palladium is enjoying resurgence, but has seen uses in jewelry in the past. It is only in recent years, however, that technology has somewhat caught up with this metal's challenges.
Palladium is one of six members of the platinum group on the periodic table. But, don't let its membership in the platinum group lead you to believe it is very much like platinum as it applies to jewelry, as it is not.
Rhodium, for example, is another member of the platinum group, but it is suitable only for plating applications. Iridium, another member, is only used in jewelry as an alloy for platinum, but not in and of itself.
Please don't let anyone confuse you on this. Nothing is like platinum except platinum.
So why the resurgence in palladium jewelry?
Well, when palladium was first used for jewelry in 1939, it was out of necessity. Platinum was banned from all uses other than military ones. You will notice that none of that palladium jewelry exists today. That's because palladium's natural brittleness precluded its longevity. As soon as the ban on platinum use lifted, no one produced palladium jewelry.
Fast forward to the 80s, when platinum was at an all-time low in popularity. Jewelry was produced on the "bigger is better" theory. While few people wanted to spend the extra money on a nice, secure, white prongs made of platinum, they wished for a whiter, yet still reasonably-priced alternative to white gold for prongs.
Enter prongs made of palladium. Hey-they're white, but they're still relatively inexpensive!
The bad news-that natural brittleness of palladium meant that the tips of palladium prongs would "shear off" rather unexpectedly. All but very few manufacturers abandoned production of palladium parts and pieces within five years of embarking on that production.
Fast forward once again, to recent years, which have seen a meteoric rise in the price of platinum. What to do about producing jewelry that is whiter than white gold but less expensive than platinum?
Back to the drawing board with palladium. Thankfully, enough people were committed to examining palladium on a metallurgical level, so that some suitable alloys (mixtures with other metals) of palladium were finally developed.
Alara uses the Hoover and Strong 950 Tru-Pd alloy mixture. It polishes up beautifully, and has far less brittleness than pure palladium.
But, there is one thing we would like to make very clear: as much as white gold is actually very, very light yellow; palladium is not white either-it's light gray. If you compare platinum to palladium side by side, you will notice that palladium, while having no tinge of yellow, is not nearly as white as platinum.
Consequently, we find that we often make pieces in palladium for men. It has a more masculine color than white gold, and usually is not "asked" to hold diamonds or other gems in place when used in men's pieces.
sterling silver and fine silver
Fine (pure) silver is actually the whitest metal out of which jewelry is crafted. For most applications, however, it is too soft for use in any jewelry that will be "put to the test."
Sterling silver is actually 92.5% pure (hence it is often stamped "925"). It is a beautiful, luminous, affordable, precious metal, suitable for many different styles and forms of jewelry.
It is not suitable for bridal jewelry or other daily-wear rings, however, because it simply does not do well over the long run on pieces that see a lot of wear. It is a soft metal, one that wears away quickly. If you want to set stones in a silver pendant or earrings, that's fine-usually one doesn't knock those pieces against surfaces very much. But rings? Not such a great idea if you want to wear it every day for a long time.
Nearly all the sterling silver jewelry produced in Mexico, the Central and South Americas, and the Far East, are heavily alloyed with nickel. Nickel is at the root of most skin reactions, allergies, and other toxin issues related to jewelry wear.
If you believe you simply "can't wear silver," please give Alara silver jewelry a try. All of our sterling silver jewelry is nickel-free. That's because a lot of our sterling silver comes from Europe, where nickel is not used as an alloy for silver; and the remainder is crafted by us or by other designers who also would rather produce a better piece of jewelry at a slightly higher price, than save money where it seems silly to do so.
titanium
Oh, the myths about titanium.
There's so many good things to say about titanium, but it seems we always have to start off by dispelling myths first…
Myth #1: Titanium cannot be cut. So, a titanium ring cannot be cut off a finger.
First of all, titanium jewelry is made by cutting it. There is nothing to prevent an Alara titanium ring from being cut off a finger, should the necessity arise. Because titanium is tougher than other jewelry metals, it does take a little longer. But the exact same cutter as would be used to cut off a gold ring can cut through an Alara titanium ring (see Myth #2) in roughly 5 to 7 minutes.
Secondly, let's consider the most typical reason a person would need to have a ring cut off their finger in the first place. What do you think the reason is?
The reason is that a ring bends, and thereby compresses the finger.
Well guess what? A titanium ring is highly unlikely to bend. Titanium is the strongest metal by weight in the world. If you actually manage to bend your titanium ring, you have exposed your finger to so much force, that the metal out of which your ring were made would make no difference in terms of saving your finger!
Interestingly enough, Alara has a number of doctors as clients (three of whom work in emergency rooms), who chose titanium as the material for their wedding rings. That's a pretty good endorsement, we think.
Myth #2: All titanium jewelry is alloyed with vanadium.
Nope. But a whole lot of it is.
Alara does not carry aerospace grade alloys of titanium, which typically contain vanadium. Alara only sells pure titanium jewelry.
Why?
A couple reasons.
First of all, vanadium is added to titanium for reasons that hardly seem applicable to jewelry. Rather, the reasons are more pertinent if you were making something for aerospace application or sports equipment, say. Vanadium makes titanium very, very hard. So hard, in fact, that the "cutting off the ring" issue starts to rear its ugly head. While vanadium-titanium rings can be cut off, it sure does take a long time.
Vanadium also makes titanium easier to machine.
So, the main reasons titanium is alloyed with vanadium have to do with ease of manufacture and to change its properties for use in non-jewelry objects.
Alara hates vanadium. We don't like how ultra-hard it makes jewelry, when that is unnecessary. We also are somewhat nervous about the fact that vanadium is toxic. While its toxicity when inhaled is unchallenged, no studies have been done to determine its toxicity during extended contact with the skin. Why risk it? And why carry jewelry that during its production, could expose workers to small pieces of material, small enough to be inhaled?
Titanium, simply put, is an amazing material for making jewelry. In our 10 years of experience selling it, we have found the great bulk of "myth talking" to originate with jewelers who opt not to learn about it or carry it.
There's a lot for a jeweler to learn, so they could be discouraged. Unlike jewelry made of precious metal, the great majority of titanium jewelry is machined from solid blocks of material. Its hardness precludes it from being easily welded, so it is, for most intents and purposes, not alterable.
So, the burden of proper finger sizing (part art, part science) falls to the jeweler. For jewelers that are accustomed to spending little time sizing fingers, but plenty of time re-sizing rings, that could be a task that sounds too difficult to tackle.
Then there's the education of customers. As this page shows, there's a large quantity of information that needs to be dispensed so that the jewelry decisions one's customers make are informed ones.
Titanium is a gray metal, a strong metal, and a very lightweight metal. It is chemically inert, which means you can expose it to household chemicals with no concerns about ruining it, and it makes it completely hypo-allergenic.
The light weight of titanium jewelry often appeals to men, particularly those who have never worn jewelry before.
Its physical properties make it ideal for many active folks of both genders. Those same physical properties, however, determine that titanium jewelry is usually machined, which by its very nature results in pieces that have a certain "light industrial" to "industrial" quality.
It is also one of very few metals that naturally has the right physical properties to allow for a diamond to be securely "tension-set". This is an intriguing and appealing setting technique, one that has a lower failure rate than many traditional setting techniques in precious metal.
tungsten
Commonly referred to as "tungsten steel" or "tungsten carbide," tungsten is actually a separate element on the periodic table. It is processed with carbon and ground to a powder.The mixed metal powder is compressed in high pressure dies to for a ring blank. The blank is then fired in an oxygen-free over at 2400 degrees Fahrenheit. The result is a solid metal ring with extreme hardness and toughness. Only corundum (sapphire, ruby) or diamond can scratch its surface.As a consequence, it requires a complex 30-step grinding and polishing process using diamond tools to finish a piece of tungsten jewelry.
nickel-free stainless steel
Less expensive than titanium, stainless steel is another great metal for jewelry. While relatively unknown to most Americans, stainless steel jewelry has been produced in Europe for over 20 years, and widely accepted there for about 15.
With good reason.
Stainless steel, as you know from your stainless steel sink or stainless steel flatware, has many desirable qualities: non-tarnishing, non-staining, durable, impervious to chemical attack, consistent in color. And, when made in the thicknesses that jewelry is made, practically impossible to distort without sheer abuse.
Like titanium, well-made stainless steel jewelry is machined, not cast. It is also unsizable or unalterable. Again, this means the onus is on the professional jeweler to properly and carefully size your finger.
Stainless steel is available in many grades. Just like our silver jewelry, Alara's three stainless steel jewelry lines are also nickel-free. That makes it hypo-allergenic. Earrings can be put in, and left in. Rings can be worn in hot tubs. It's a wonderful, affordable jewelry metal.
Stainless steel jewelry is usually produced in heavy (thick) gauges. Consequently, it has a very contemporary, industrial look. Most folks just call it "cool."
Friday, February 1, 2008
it ain't easy being green
It's simple: develop a plan to be more green as a company and as a person, and then stick to it. Here's a bit more on the policies I have instituted at Alara to fulfill my "green plan."
Alara is 100% carbon neutral
If just one person or one other company reads this section, thinks about it, and then acts on it, this space will be well-used…
Have you heard of the concept of purchasing carbon offsets? If you have, you will be pleased to know that Alara purchases carbon offsets for all the energy the two stores and the design studio uses, plus for all the travel all Alara employees make to and from work on a daily basis, as well as business travel to points beyond.
Have no idea what we’re writing about? Well, since Alara can’t put solar panels or windmills on the rooftops of its three buildings, we’re doing the next best thing. We calculate what Alara’s “carbon footprint” is for the use of all the electricity and gas we use for the running of the business and for the travel of our employees. We then purchase “offsets” that results in solar and wind power being developed off-site.
You can do this to! You can do it as an individual or as a business-owner, or you can certainly encourage your employer to follow suit. Instead of giving “favors” to your wedding guests, consider having each guest’s placesetting decorated with a card that informs them that they are a guest at a “Green Wedding.” That’s right—you purchased carbon offsets to account for all the car and air travel of your guests, so that your elaborate event wasn’t thrown at the expense of the planet. Throw a couple web addresses on the card…and if even one person follows suit…well, you get the idea.
Here are a few websites to check out for the purchase of carbon offsets. But please beware! As counter-intuitive as it sounds, “tree-planting” is not considered to be a true offset, which is why those offsets cost less. Do your research, and don’t consider this an endorsement of any particular organization.
Climate Care http://www.climatecare.org/
TerraPass http://www.terraspass.com/
Carbon Fund http://www.carbonfund.org/site/
Native Energy http://www.nativeenergy.com/
Alara uses 100% recycled precious metal
Alara uses 100% recycled precious metal to create our collections. To begin, we have in-house refining capabilities, so any scrap precious metal you bring in may be used to create a new piece.
We also take scrap precious metal in trade towards pieces that have been already created, as well as purchase scrap precious metal outright. All that metal is refined and re-used in Alara designs.
And, since we use far more precious metal than we take in, we only purchase the difference from sources that separate their recycled scrap and earmark it. Wanna help? Bring your broken, unworn, unliked precious metal jewelry to us. We’ll purchase it from you at the best rate in town and you can be part of the solution.
Alara is 100% carbon neutral
If just one person or one other company reads this section, thinks about it, and then acts on it, this space will be well-used…
Have you heard of the concept of purchasing carbon offsets? If you have, you will be pleased to know that Alara purchases carbon offsets for all the energy the two stores and the design studio uses, plus for all the travel all Alara employees make to and from work on a daily basis, as well as business travel to points beyond.
Have no idea what we’re writing about? Well, since Alara can’t put solar panels or windmills on the rooftops of its three buildings, we’re doing the next best thing. We calculate what Alara’s “carbon footprint” is for the use of all the electricity and gas we use for the running of the business and for the travel of our employees. We then purchase “offsets” that results in solar and wind power being developed off-site.
You can do this to! You can do it as an individual or as a business-owner, or you can certainly encourage your employer to follow suit. Instead of giving “favors” to your wedding guests, consider having each guest’s placesetting decorated with a card that informs them that they are a guest at a “Green Wedding.” That’s right—you purchased carbon offsets to account for all the car and air travel of your guests, so that your elaborate event wasn’t thrown at the expense of the planet. Throw a couple web addresses on the card…and if even one person follows suit…well, you get the idea.
Here are a few websites to check out for the purchase of carbon offsets. But please beware! As counter-intuitive as it sounds, “tree-planting” is not considered to be a true offset, which is why those offsets cost less. Do your research, and don’t consider this an endorsement of any particular organization.
Climate Care http://www.climatecare.org/
TerraPass http://www.terraspass.com/
Carbon Fund http://www.carbonfund.org/site/
Native Energy http://www.nativeenergy.com/
Alara uses 100% recycled precious metal
Alara uses 100% recycled precious metal to create our collections. To begin, we have in-house refining capabilities, so any scrap precious metal you bring in may be used to create a new piece.
We also take scrap precious metal in trade towards pieces that have been already created, as well as purchase scrap precious metal outright. All that metal is refined and re-used in Alara designs.
And, since we use far more precious metal than we take in, we only purchase the difference from sources that separate their recycled scrap and earmark it. Wanna help? Bring your broken, unworn, unliked precious metal jewelry to us. We’ll purchase it from you at the best rate in town and you can be part of the solution.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
